September 14-19 Hill City SD, Part 2

Sept 14-19  Hill City, SD (Horse Thief Campground for 6 nights) 

Tuesday Sept 17th

The drive to get to Spearfish Canyon
took us up through the city of Lead and past Cheyenne Crossing. We learned later that the restaurant at this crossing has pretty good food but we did not know that when we passed. Since our destination was the canyon drive we did not stop in Lead (1 mile high, 1 mile wide and 1 mile deep), founded in 1876, the same year as Deadwood during the gold rush period.  The Spearfish Canyon Scenic Byway is a 19 mile route north on U.S. 14A and one of the top six scenic drives in the Black Hills Area.  It goes down into the canyon through four eco systems at a steady 3% grade which is why bicyclists like it.  Spearfish creek

parallels the road and there are many trout in the stream but they are not native.  They were introduced about 100 years ago which makes them almost native by now!  There are several beautiful overlooks with places to gaze up at the limestone cliffs.  We stopped at several waterfalls including the 1.5 mile loop hike to the lower observation deck for Spearfish Falls and the roadside viewing platform to gaze at the 60 ft tall Bridal Veil Falls.  Though there were some starts of yellow in the ground foliage and several vines climbing the cliffs were turning red the canyon is far from peak fall color.   

The canyon comes out in the town of Spearfish, previously famous for the Black Hills Passion play held annually for many years.  One of my Mah Jongg friends from Trilogy, Ethylene lives here.  We caught up on our summer highlights and then she treated us to lunch at the Coffee and Wine bar  that her daughters and granddaughter  recently opened.  It, along with several other restaurants and a salon are on property along a  pretty little creek. The property was previously owned by family that started the Spearfish Black Hills Passion Play which has been discontinued.  The new businesses  have tried to keep with a farm theme for the buildings in honor of the long time local family and community supporters.  Ethylene's husband Vic joined us after a meeting

as we enjoyed our tasty wrap sandwiches and salads for lunch out on the deck.   His Kiwanis meeting was to finalize plans for the annual distribution of dictionaries to fourth graders in the local surrounding communities.  They have distributed over 4,000 dictionaries.  Ethylene makes all of the dressings for the salads and sandwiches for the
restaurant and they were delicious.  She is very proud of her girls and rightly so!  We purchased a couple of cookies for the road before we took off.  After saying our good byes we headed north on US. 85 to Belle Fourche (pronounced foosh).  Bell Fourshe is the Geographic Center of the USA.  Here we found a giant Granite Compass Rose and a plaque with details about the geographic center moving from Kansas after the addition of Alaska and Hawaii.  It was a 20 mile detour but we figured with all of the traveling we have done it seemed fitting to set foot on the Center of the USA. 

From there we headed back through Spearfish to Deadwood.  Deadwood is famous for the characters who hung out and lived there during its gold rush, wild west era.  Wild Bill and Calamity Jane being two of the most infamous.  Deadwood, established in 1876, was said to have a church at either end with a mile of hell in between.  The town was clean and neat with many of the historic buildings now housing tourist shops and restaurants.  The whole town is listed on the National Historic Register.  If we had not been to Dodge City in Kansas earlier this summer Deadwood

may have had more appeal.  We did not do the town justice I am sure, but we were not into gunfight re-enactments, having our pictures taken with cowboys or buying Deadwood souvenirs.  Though the cemetery looked larger than Boot Hill in Dodge City we looked at the darkening skies and decided to keep going rather than search out historic tombstones.  We cruised into Deadwood, realizing we have done a lot of sight seeing this summer and our enthusiasm was waning, then headed out of town on US14A towards Sturgis.  The 14 mile scenic drive between Deadwood and Sturgis is known as the Boulder Canyon Scenic Drive.  Mostly noted for its fall color it was not as scenic as Spearfish Canyon was. 

Next Stop-Sturgis, sight of the largest motorcycle rally in the world. There are Bars and Restaurants and a Motorcycle museum and not much else.   Many establishments are closed since the annual rally was weeks ago and summer is waning fast.  All of the local towns and bars have signs welcoming the motorcycle enthusiasts too.  We have been trying a new driving app this summer called "Just Ahead" and it prompted us to drive up the road a bit towards Fort Meade.  

We cruised the grounds and stopped at the museum to see if there was a charge.  Since there were three floors and it had been a long day, we just signed the visitor log and chatted with the man at the desk.  We found out that Fort Mead, founded in 1878, has been in service for over 60 years.   The location was on the main trail to favored Sioux hunting grounds and near the heavily traveled trails to Bismark, and other cities and the gold fields in Lead and Deadwood.  The goal was to protect miners and settlers.  Because their goal was to maintain the peace it became known as the Peace Keeper Fort.  

It is where the Star Spangled Banner was first played for  military ceremonies and visiting dignitaries.  The local Historian a semi- retired History Teacher told us that it goes to prove that behind every man with a great idea is a woman!  It was the commander's?? wife who suggested that a National Air, was needed and this song seemed fitting, the tradition spread and was later declared by law as our National anthem.    Later the fort was a base for 16 Civilian Conservation Camps,
and later troops assisted in flights of Explorer I & II where manned altitude records were set.  It has the only original Cavalry Post Cemetery that has not been moved to a new location.  Since 1944 the fort has been part of the VA hospital network, and part of the fort is also home to the South Dakota National Guard as a training facility.  As we talked the wind kicked up fiercely and the rain started.  We had intended to drive through Bear Butte State Park and the end of Centennial trail,  near the fort but the high winds and rain put a damper on those ideas.  On the highway we were treated to lightening show and wall of water with more high WINDS as we hit Rapid City.  So much for the free car wash Tony got when he was at the dealer yesterday.  

By the time we drove into Hill City the rain had stopped and the skies were clearing up.  Several wineries in town have free wine tasting and Prairie Berry Winery is home to several award winning fruit wines.   They had wines with currants, apricots, raspberries, strawberries, chokecherries and more.  Their most famous wine, that has won over 1000 awards nationally and world wide is the Red ASS Rhubarb (raspberries and rhubarb).  This year they added the Rosy ASS Rhubarb (sub strawberries for the raspberries).  They were both too sweet for me although Tony liked the Rosy ASS better.  Buffalo Berry Fusion was a light white, though still towards the sweet side and the one that we both could agree upon especially if it was a hot summer day with a salad.  Tony says that he'll take whiskey, over wine any day. 

  

Wednesday Sept.  18 - With all of the driving
the last few days an adventure closer to camp was in order for today.  We took our time enjoying coffee and breakfast and finally headed toward Sylvan Lake only six miles from camp, in Custer State Park, around 10:30 am.  The drive back down a section of the Needles Highway (part of the Norbeck Scenic Loop) was just as beautiful today as it was the other day.  Hiking part of the way up to Black Elk (a legendary Lakota Indian Medicine Man) Peak, the highest peak (at 7242 ft) east of the Rocky Mountains and South Dakota's highest peak, was our goal for the day.  Trail #9 is about 3.3 miles and gains around 1100 feet in elevation from the trail head near Sylvan Lake.  The trail was fairly wide and rocky in some

spots.  The elevation change is why it is labeled
MODERATE, at least for the stretch we were on.  It was a beautiful day with clear blue skies, cooler temperatures, around 70, when we took off at 11 am.   There just enough of a breeze to make the prairie grasses wave gently to us as we passed.   The only wild life we saw were chipmunks and birds flitting around.  The path sparkled and shined with bits of rock that made you feel like you were on a jeweled street.  The towering limestone pillars watched over us as we went along for about an hour.  We forgot to start the Map My Walk app and maybe it would not even have worked among the rocky spires.  We figure by the  picture map we traveled about half way along the trail and are glad we explored it.  It was definitely worth it, just like Tim and Dee said it would be, and Mother Nature cooperated beautifully with gorgeous weather.  Tomorrow we plan to come back to walk the lake trail around Sylvan Lake and explore the lodge.

Into Hill City we headed for lunch at the highly
recommended Alpine Inn Restaurant.  I had a classic German lunch of smoked pork chop with sautéed red cabbage and sauerkraut  and German potato salad.  Tony went for a Monte Cristo Sandwich.  I have never had cold German Potato Salad but it was pretty tasty.  The apple strudel came home with us for a snack later this evening.  Interestingly enough in many places around the country, are lovely sayings, painted in of all places, on the bathroom walls.  At the Alpine Inn bathroom, I was reminded that "Happiness is a journey, Not a Destination".  How True!  We shopped and perused through some of the businesses in town but did not buy anything.  A stop at the 1880 train depot gave us the opportunity to get some photos of the 100 year

old Engine that has been used in several movies and just recently retired.  There is also a SD State Train Museum in town that our friend from our Alaska Caravan last year would probably love.  We however, were not feeling the lure of the trains this afternoon.  The Desperado Restaurant was one of our stops too.  It is the oldest Commercial log building still in operation in SD.??? While we were there we checked out the menu in case we decide to eat out again tomorrow. 

As we enjoyed the sunshine and some reading this afternoon we chatted with the young couple next to us who had come in late two nights ago.  This is their maiden voyage after only a two night shakedown campout in their new travel trailer.   They are heading to his next duty station at Camp Pendleton from Virginia.  Since they got in after dark their set up was rushed and come to find out their sewer hose won't reach the connection.  Tony assisted with lending our hose to drain tanks so they did not have to tear down their camp and pull forward a few feet.  The pregnant wife with the toddler and the soldier were much appreciative.  They have added two basic tenents to their list, arrive at camp before dark and always check the locations of the sewer and electrical hook ups. 

Dinner was a throw together.  Left over chicken with wild rice from the freezer added to a can of Louisiana style spicy red beans from the Bush factory visitor center earlier this summer.  Oh, and I cut up and stirred in the last chicken sausage link we had from a few nights ago.  A camping take on red beans and rice!  We watched several blue birds swoop and flit around the campground out the dining room window  while we ate.  Later as we played cribbage we split the apple strudel from Alpine Inn, alongside a cup of tea.   Since we plan to head back to Sylvan Lake tomorrow we won't be up too late.  When we arrived today about 10:45, parking for the trail head to Harney Peak (now called Black Elk Peak), was quite crowded.  We were surprised given that it is mid-week and after Labor Day and school has started.  The trail itself had a steady stream of people going both directions and most we chatted with were from out of state and not all were retired either.  We passed one group of three young girls, maybe early twenties, heading up the trail.  One girl was leaving strands of yarn on the branches, "to find their way back", she said.  Her friends chided her and said "what, the trail isn't enough clue?" and laughed.  Did I mention that the trail was about 4 feet wide in most places and very easy to follow.  Tony and I chuckled too.  The best T-shirt I have seen for a couple of days said "Think Outside"   "No Box Required".   Quite Appropriate for a day like today!

Thursday Sept 19

Today was another soak up the scenery day!  Starting back
at Sylvan Lake we were on the easy one mile loop trail by 10:30 am.  Well most of the trail was quite easy, flat, wide and level.  When we got near the back end of the man made lake we were surprised at how many rocks and boulders we had to scale over.  Granted there were some rock ledge steps that were laid out and grooves cut in some of  the rocks but in several places I used the large boulders to hang on to as we were descending.  That is the spot where the Sunday Gulch Trail (strenuous) intersects with the Sylvan Lake Loop.  I saw several adults carrying children in back packs and front packs too.  And many in flip flops!  I guess they were as surprised as we were!  One lady from Grand Rapids MI carrying a toddler said ,"I guess we did pretty good for our age".  Tony and I looked at each other after she passed and said she can't be more than 35.  What will she do when she gets to her 60's? 

Finding a shady spot  along the lake we proceeded
to set up our chairs and take out our novels.  We enjoyed about 90 minutes of reading.  After that we were getting chilled in the shade with the breeze though the temp was around 74.  Also my back was hurting from sitting.  The Sylvan Lake Lodge was the only lodge in the park we did not check out yesterday so back up the road one mile to see it.  Very nice, rustic and with many, many animal

mounts.  I was surprised to see them here.  I expected to see that decor at the State Game Lodge yesterday but we did not see any wild life hunting spoils there.  They have a nice outdoor patio but we were not ready for lunch yet.  All of the lodges in the park had friendly staff that had no problems with you stopping to take pictures or even use the bathrooms.  

Continuing on along the Needles Highway past the Cathedral Spires (a National Natural Landmark) it was great to take in the towering wonders again and not try to snap pictures.  Tony and I both decided that though we might like some outdoor adventures, Rock Climbing is not one we aspire to do.  They have several trails here   
marked as rock climbing and even a rock climbing school locally.  About 30 minutes later, near the park visitor center we found a shady picnic area along a creek and enjoyed our veggies, hummus, turkey and crackers.  Exiting the park on US 16A, the Iron Mountain Road we headed north to Mt. Rushmore.  The tight curves, twists, pigtail bridges (road loops over  itself), one way sections and low, narrow, rock walled tunnels were designed and engineered specifically to make the travelers SLOW down and enjoy the breathtaking scenery.  The tunnels were cleverly placed to give views of Mt. Rushmore about three miles in the distance.  The Peter Norbeck Scenic Overlook is the highest point along the Iron Mountain Road so of course we had to stop for stunning views that also included Mt. Rushmore. 

Today was sunny but that actually makes driving on challenging roads more difficult with the shadows through the trees and changing angles of shadows as you drive.  Also treacherous, are people who don't stay on their side of the road which always seems to happen in a tight curve.   People who don't follow signs, like the one way signs in the overlook parking lot are another concern.  On the way back to camp we cruised through the Horse Thief Lake campground which is nestled right along the highway on the lake.  The roads and sites are tight and there were no RV hook ups.  Several people had their solar panels out but with so many trees around I wonder how well that was working.  Found an article today that talks about a nice RV Park we will have to check out next time we come Rafter J Bar Ranch.  This area is so pretty and with lots to see and do I can definitely see us returning to the Black Hills of South Dakota.   All in all considering all of the scenic routes we have taken, some twice, we have driven a lot of miles.  All the legs of the Norbeck Scenic Byway alone are 70 miles of driving.   We never made it to Hot Springs, the mammoth museum,  back to Crazy Horse Mountain or the Firehouse Brewery with all of the old fire trucks.  So much to see and do in the Black Hills.  We would love to come back to Hill City, the heart of the Black Hills. What a great state to end the "See the USA in our Chevrolet" trip. Tomorrow we continue our journey back to AZ!