June 1-6, Heber AZ and Santa Fe NM


June 1-2  Saturday & Sunday Heber, Arizona
Hot, sunny, 84o, as we pulled out of our drive at 9:55 am starting with only 2996 miles on our new truck. Well, we did not get too far before our first pit stop.  After listening to last night's news of the impending tariffs on Mexican goods we decided to stop at Costco for Tequila. It is one of the things we were out of when we packed up.  Liquor is cheaper in AZ so we decided to stop sooner than later.  OK, OK since breakfast had been hours earlier we opted for pizza for lunch too.  Back on the road we noticed that the saguaro cacti are one of the few cacti still blooming along the roadways.  Also spotted in the road:  a ladder and a 50# bag of onions.  Go figure!  Diesel fuel is $3.03 per gallon up here in Heber.  It will be interesting to see how much that fluctuates over the summer journey. 

The Heber RV Park is simple but nice and so is the weather.  At 7,000 feet elevation the temps are only topping out at mid 70's and with a breeze, it is so pleasant.  I could easily see coming here for a week of relaxation to escape the valley heat.  After setting up we decided to hit Saturday evening mass at Our Lady of the Assumption Church less than a mile away.  Small town churches are often quite surprising.  This newer log cabin church, had an open airy feel, with gorgeous stained glass windows dedicated to the highlights in Our Lady's life.  Even the priest's vestments had a Blessed Virgin motif.  Being the Feast of the Ascension the message was one of HOPE.  Also typical of small town parishes:  the organist called in sick so we sang only the closing hymn - a capella.  The lector was a no show, so father tapped a volunteer from the 70 or so people in the pews. The pastor is pretty upbeat, and rolls quite well with the punches having just come from a Las Vegas congregation a few years ago and will celebrate his 25th jubilee in the priest hood next week.  "The Mass is ended, go in Peace, get out of here and enjoy the weekend! " was how he dismissed us.  Start to finish about 45 minutes.  Pretty funny. 

Dinner - Grilled crappie fish (from our next door neighbors) and asparagus (good friends cleaning out fridge) and I made salad.  I like a good Mexican mule and I wanted to put that tequila to good use so I experimented.  I had a bottle of ginger lime flavored sparkling ICE (brand name) water and walla!  A great quick substitute for ginger beer;  it was a great tasty cocktail, lower in calories too and cheaper if you find the sparkling water on sale.  Next time I will add a squeeze of fresh lime.   

Sunday wouldn't be the same if we didn't go out for breakfast.  June's Cafe is a small local place also close to camp that actually gets 4 stars on Trip Advisor.  Someone in Trilogy told us about it, but for the life of us we can't remember who.  Good food, very fast service, friendly people.  Oh yeah, when was the last time you had coffee at a restaurant, with free refills, for $0.94?  Definitely worth the recommendation.  We had to clean the windows in the RV today too.  Tony washed the RV before we left and there were so many residual water spots it was hard to see out.  Washed the insides and screens while we were at it.  Noticed a couple of horizontal cracks in the exterior door.  Tony chatted with the park manager, also an RV owner/jack of all trades, and then took the door apart.  Does not look serious, not sure the level of repair required yet.  Stay tuned. 

June 3;  Monday-Thursday  Santa Fe, New Mexico

-Monday's drive was pretty uneventful as we covered miles of shrubs, grasslands and high dessert mesa rock formations.  We did see a few wild horses though and plenty of casinos.  I-25 North to Santa Fe, off of I-40, was a new road for us and more of the same scenery.  The New Mexico state capital, Santa Fe, is higher in elevation than any other state capital, 7,199 ft.  Close to our camp is a little place Cafe El Camol (The griddle) where we walked for dinner.  If we did not know hot green chili was before, we do now.  And they say the green is milder than the red.  YIKES!  Good thing I asked for mine on the side. 

-Tuesday morning is one of the farmer's market days at the Santa Fe Railyard area   It is a little early in the season for many fruits and veggies and many of the stalls were empty but we still had fun.  The colors and vibrancy of the spring flowers and early season veggies (radishes, turnips, lettuces, early onions) were
My Happy Place
uplifting.  There is something
about home grown stuff that makes me happy.  The pride and care of the growers was very evident even in the way the produce was displayed.  I bought some mild green chili, and negro medium chili powders to take home.  I bet later in the summer the market will be awesome. 

Next we headed out highway 14 down the Turquoise Trail; a National Scenic highway.   Destination - The Origami Sculpture Garden in Cerrillos.  It  was worth the trip!!.  Metal Sculptures made to look like giant sized paper origami figures.  Our private tour, since no others showed up, was led by the artist Kevin Box himself.  Hearing about his research into paper folding and unfolding and the message he wanted to portray with the various sculptures was quite interesting.  The center piece was Master Peace, 500 cranes, and another 500 cranes positioned throughout the world.  BUT, when you look at the base, you see the other 500.  Against the high desert landscape of his home garden/yard the sculptures and the experience was quite unique and I would highly recommend it. 
Master Peace

Continuing down the Turquoise Trail we passed a wygu beef cattle ranch and made a stop in Golden at Henderson Store (Native American Arts and Crafts), that has been family owned and operated since 1918.  In Madrid we stopped in at Jezebel's which has it's original soda fountain counter and stools.  Refurbished but beautifully maintained.  True to the ads you can find the beloved green chilies even in ice cream.  I had the locally made Vanilla, Caramel, Green Chili Gelato which surprisingly was not bad.  The ice cream nicely tempered the heat of the chili peppers.  I would not run out and buy a gallon but is was not bad.  The glass studio and other galleries in town were fun to browse and quite a bit out of our price range.  My left over condiment sized cup of green chili sauce from yesterday was more than enough to season my leftover pint of beans and a quart of chicken broth I had from Arizona along with veggies for a zippy soup we had for a late lunch. 

The wind was picking up and rain was predicted but after lunch and a short nap we decided to head the hour north to Chimayo.  From the highway we could see some of the National Military Cemetery.  All of the white headstones lined up in perfectly symmetric patterns was quite moving.  From there we took the "High Road to Taos" which is a Scenic byway and the clouds,
winds, mountains and curves certainly made it memorable.  There is a small shrine called "El Santuario de Chimayo" set in the Sangre de Christo Mountains where many faithful have made pilgrimages to experience the blessed dirt since around 1810.  Set on the banks of the Santa Cruz river many have experienced healing, and there are crutches and bandages and various artifacts left after the miracles. There are several small shrines to the blessed virgin on the outside and seven stone cross arches (days of creation) along the river and great examples of 19th century Hispanic religious folk art.  Since this was a spur of the moment drive this afternoon we neglected to bring anything to hold the sacred dirt to bring home.  We touched the dirt and said our special intentions.  
Father Sebastian was happy to give us a special blessing for safe travels this summer and after he sprinkled us with holy water spray, we got sprinkled with more holy water (rain) as we took in the various statues, sculptures and shrines of thanksgiving for various blessings from the many who have been here before.  On the way home we made a slight detour to try and see the Santa Fe opera house.  But by now it was a full baptismal immersion of rain water and cold wind and you really can not see the opera house from the parking area.  That was a bust. 

-Wednesday Downtown Santa Fe, in particular the historic district, was on our agenda.  After a little
St. Francis Cathedral Basilica
Loretto Chapel
research we decided to play like locals and take public transportation.  The #2 bus goes right to the downtown transit station from outside our campground, and is only $1 for all day for seniors.  Downtown there are FREE shuttles that take you around the historic loop.  So we were off.  Most of the historic sites are an easy walk from the shuttle stop.  We enjoyed St. Francis Cathedral Basilica (after the funeral finished),  magnificent gothic architecture with Italian artistry in the Loretto Chapel (famous engineering marvel double helical staircase built by an unknown
San Miguel Chapel
Santuario De Guadalupe
carpenter with no nails or center support), San Miguel a Tiaxcatan Indian Chapel circa 1630's,  and Santuario De Guadalupe (the oldest surviving church in the US to our Lady of Guadalupe).  Around the Palace of the Governors many pueblos (each their own sovereign nation) display juried art.  It was all beautifully crafted.  The central plaza is a park surrounded by stores, shops and galleries.  The colorful blankets, sculptures and pottery made it a sensory delight to walk and wander.  Many other artists displayed their wares for the tourists around the plaza. 



La Fonda Hotel
A quick stop in the visitor center for restrooms and restaurant recommendations before going to the state capitol brought new insight to the culture.  We were told that almost all of the restaurants, except those in hotels, close from 2-5pm for siesta time.  In fact when we got back to the plaza it was very evident that there is a 2 pm guideline cutoff.  Most of the pueblo artists had packed up and left and all of the other artists around the plaza were gone as were most of the tourists. The La Fonda Hotel also on the Plaza was kind of disappointing.  It was one of the original nicer hotel stops on the Santa Fe rail line where travelers could get decent, high quality food served in an upscale environment.  The lobby had historic architecture and the dining room was bustling but I saw no information giving you a history or insight to its origins.  AND there were no pictures paying homage to the Harvey girls who were the servers and no recordings of the Harvey girls singing.  The historic district is very walk able; we only used the shuttle once at the end of the day to get us to the stop to get on the city bus home.

When we finally made it for a late lunch at the Plaza Cafe (does not shut down for siesta) I went with another traditional local offering "pozole".  It is a stew made with hominy and chicken or pork and served of course with chili sauce.  The flavor was very good, the green chili on the side was still very hot, and there was too much hominy.  Served with thinly shredded cabbage, cilantro and red onion toppings I liked it, but would not order again.  My stomach felt like it was going to blow up, but hominy is lower in carbs and calories than rice and higher in fiber.  Treating the dried corn with the alkaline solution after removing the outer shell makes it more digestible and softer and the vitamin B nutrients more readily available; so it is often considered a super food.  Tony went the safe route (burrito) and the sopapilla  (puffy fry bread), was not as good as the one yesterday. 

Ceiling at the State Capitol
State Capitol Rotunda floor
One of the biggest bonus items we saw was the New Mexico
State Capitol building.  It is not very imposing or striking from the outside with its low adobe walls and modern glass windows but step inside and enjoy.  The friendly staff gave us a brochure telling what to see on the three public floors including the senate and house chamber
rooms.  The state seal in the rotunda and glass dome skylight (depicting a basket weave pattern)
"Out of the Blue" Exhibit
Buffalo Head from trash
were beautiful.  Along with the
requisite pictures of past governors, their collection of artwork is amazing.  Paintings, sculptures and the current traveling exhibit "Out of the Blue" has many, many beautiful quilted and hand sewn 3'x3' cloth and textile works depicting everything from nature scenes, and abstract art to people.  One of their most famous pieces is a buffalo head which if examined closely is composed of pieces of trash the artist picked up riding her bicycle all over New Mexico.  Well worth the stop.  No other tourist we talked with today had seen those displays.  A hidden gem and consequently not very crowded either. 

Lots of scenery and history to be  If only the roads could talk!  Since being here in Santa Fe we have been on parts of El Camino Real (700 mile road between 21 missions starting in California), the original Santa Fe Trail (870 mile 19th century transportation route between Franklin MO and Santa Fe NM), High Road to Taos (56 mile scenic, winding, byway travels through Sangre Cristo mountains, through found in this part of the country.  Spanish land grant villages and pueblo Indian villages), and the
Turquoise Trail (54 miles long scenic byway connects Santa Fe and Albuquerque). 

Thursday- After a leisurely morning with coffee and breakfast we headed back to the downtown area to finish up a few sights.  First stop Goodwill store to look for a clock.  Ours fell on my head when I leaned over a few days ago to rest the heavy Corian sink covers against the wall.  I must have bumped the wall and ended up with a bump on my head and glass from the clock face shattered everywhere.  Surprising how dependent you become on looking in a particular spot for the clock.  Yeah, we are on vacation, but still!!  No luck at Goodwill.   

Oil on Canvas Painting
Next back to Santuario De Guadalupe.  
When we arrived yesterday they were closed but got pictures of the outside and the walk able outdoor rosary with individual stone "beads" for the 5 decades of the rosary honoring 50 parishes dedicated to Our Lady around New Mexico.  We really wanted to see the interior.  The interior is rustic and not ornate but rich in history.  The altar wall hanging is the original oil on canvas painting from 1783 that depicts the story of the Virgin Mary (Our Lady of Guadalupe) appearing to a peasant farmer (Juan Diego).  He appealed on her behalf to the bishop in Mexico to have a church built.  It is estimated that this was the start of a movement that converted over 8 million pagans to Christianity around the same time that Martin
Back of Santuario De Guadalupe
Luther left the church with about 8 million followers.
Relics
St. Juan Diego's cloak that held the roses he picked as a sign for the bishop and was imprinted with an image of the Virgin is on display in Mexico City.  The oil painting was  miraculously unharmed through two catastrophic events (fire and a bomb) that destroyed much of the church since its origination.  It is in a poorer neighborhood and at various times they have had problems with theft and vagrants, but the congregation with faith presses on.  Our docent was a local lady who had made her first communion and confirmation in this church and still belongs to the local parish.   She was very reverent and let us get an up close view of the painting with the date and several other sacred relics of Hispanic origin they have locked in a separate room.  The Hispanic, Mexican and Indigenous Peoples are all very reverent and steadfast in their devotion to Mother Mary and especially Our Lady of Guadalupe.   

Lunch was at a small local joint called the Tune-Up Cafe.  A friend had recommended it having seen it on Diners, Drive Ins and Dives on Food Network.  Quaint, and not too far from the church we opted for some classic diner food.  Tony went for an omelet served with the fixings on the bottom and eggs and green chilies on top, and my grilled chicken came on cheesy jalapeno bread with grilled onions and avocado.  So there were a few twists thrown in.  Not wanting to leave many stones un-turned we went back to the visitor center to ride the free shuttle for the other loops just out side of the city proper.  Canyon Drive is full of shops and galleries and many have outdoor artwork you can see as you drive by, or in our case ride by!  Museum Hill has several museums including one for children, folk ark, southwest art and a botanical garden.  We figured we had seen a lot of art in town and in the churches so we stayed on the bus for a ride around the loop.  

There always seems to be something

we can use at Walmart and it IS on the way back to camp.  The shuttle driver told us that the Creamfield Sour cream dip comes in two flavors and both are good.  I had only gotten the green chili version.  We needed a few other non-essentials like tennis shoes and emery boards, a spray bottle and coleslaw, so we got the jalapeno flavor dip also.  Fuel up for tomorrow's departure and a stop at Home Depot rounded out the afternoon.  Just for grins and giggles I went to the garden department to scope out the various types of pepper plants the locals have available.  With varieties like MuchoNacho, Big Jim, Coolapeno and many others I had never heard of; it was an education!  Speaking of education: there is an Indigenous Language school just down the road that is supported by nine local pueblos.  Interesting things you see when traveling.

We attempted (twice) to go to Meow Wolf.  Meow Wolf’s House of Eternal Return is an interactive art experience that we didn't get a chance to experience due to extremely high numbers of people already there (it was just reviewed on Good Morning America last week).  They are supposed to build one in Phoenix (2022?), so we may have to wait till then, or go to Las Vegas which is opening one later this year.

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